 | Sunset view of the Uluwatu Temple cliffs | | | | | I almost couldn't believe it. My first full day in Bali, a local man I'd met through a friend escorted me on a short walking tour through a remote village near Ubud. We came across a family with an adorable baby. I cooed at the infant, smiled and touched my heart to communicate my affection. Then the mother handed me her baby to hold. Just like that. | I was so touched by the gesture, so intimate and trusting, I felt tears welling up in my eyes. I told this story to Narina Exelby, a travel writer who spends about half the year in Bali (pandemic notwithstanding), and she explained to me that babies do not touch the ground in Bali until they are three months old. "The belief is that a baby doesn't have its own spiritual strength to resist the negative powers of the earth." | | Me with my sister Anne at a water temple near Ubud | | | The Balinese culture is one of ceremonies, auspicious days, offerings and blessings, it's a very central part of life. "In Bali, there's a very important philosophy of Tri Hita Karana," Exelby says, "harmony with God, harmony among people and harmony with nature. The Balinese believe in balance." | This balance permeates every aspect of life in Bali, and it's one of the things you notice if you're lucky enough to visit. My trip there with my sister a few years back was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. It was transformative. Visit Bali to reconnect with humanity, with nature, and most importantly, yourself. | | | With so many things to see and do, it's hard to narrow it down. Bali-based travel writer Narina Exelby shares her favorites. | | Massages in Bali are a must | | | | | | | See terraced rice paddies. The Jatiluwih terraces are less visited than the Tegallalang terraces – both are beautiful. | | | | | Get a massage. And don't judge a spa by its cover. The best massages are in unassuming places. | | | | | Try babi guling (roasted suckling pig). Babi Guling Sari Kembar 99 in Denpasar – a roadside eatery – serves up the best babi on the island. | | | | | Have brunch at Raffles Bali. It's a decadent seven-course affair that honors food from different regions of Bali and is out of this world. | | | | Rumah Pohon Tree House, Nusa Penida | | | | | To make sure you have the time of your life on your visit, Bali-based travel writer Mark Eveleigh put together a selection of the best things to do on the island, from seeing spectacular rice terraces to partying at the beach. | | | I recently chatted with Narina Exelby, a Bali-based travel writer, to learn more about life on the Island of the Gods. | | | | Narina and Mark live in Pekutatan on the west coast of Bali | | | | | Our village is called Pekutatan in the far west of Bali. We have a really special home. We're not far from Medewi, which surfers know. It has a really long left-hand break. Mark, my husband, surfs every day for two hours. | | | I did learn, and was starting to get good but I had a huge accident and ended up with 38 stitches. I surfed once or twice after I recovered, but I don't surf anymore. | After my accident, Sudana, who's sort of our Balinese uncle, said that my board hadn't been blessed yet, so that's perhaps why I had my accident. | | | | | Don't judge travel time by distance. It can take 4 hours to go 90 kilometers. | | | Blessings are big in Bali. | Yes, we will have our water meter blessed. Your vehicles get blessed. Crossroads get blessed. | | | How do you describe the Balinese? | Once we were driving and ran out of fuel. Within seconds someone stopped, offered to help and gave me a ride on her scooter to buy some fuel. That kind of thing happens every day. You look half-confused for a split second and somebody wants to help. I love that beautiful generosity. | | | | | "Bali is a brilliant post-pandemic destination to re-establish the human connection." | | | What is a perfect holiday in Bali? | Eating local cuisine. My absolute favorite place to eat is Rasta Cafe in Medewi. Their home-cooked Indonesian dishes will be among the best you eat on the island, regardless of the price tag. | If you want to try one of chef and owner Dewi's (mostly vegetarian) recipes, please order our cookbook, which we published during the pandemic. | | | | | Get a local SIM card at the airport. Your phone may not work, especially if it's expensive. | | | Do you have any favorite hotels or places to stay? | If you can, stay in an array of places. A homestay makes a massive financial difference to local families, and it will give you a different experience and add so much depth to see how a real Balinese family lives. | I think staying (and eating) at Potato Head is really special. They have a steadfast commitment to the environment. They're super hip with contemporary Indonesian artists at the forefront. | Tugu is owned by an Indonesian art collector, who had so many pieces and antiques that he opened hotels to display them. It feels like a beautiful, unusual home of an eccentric aunt. | | | | Tanah Lot, one of Bali's breathtaking sea temples | | | Is there a temple that is special to you? | Because it's in my nature to escape the crowds, a temple I love is quiet Rambut Siwi on the west coast. It's one of Bali's sea temples – as are the super-famous Uluwatu and Tanah Lot – and has exceptional views out to the ocean. | Remember that when you visit a temple you'll need to wear a sarong (it's useful to always have one close at hand when you travel Bali). | | | How should visitors get to know Bali? | While you're there, be sure to ask questions and be persistent. There's always another layer. | | | | | Brekke Fletcher is a travel writer and editor whose work has appeared in TIME Magazine, The Wall Street Journal and CNN. Now she oversees Newsletters for Lonely Planet and loves every minute of it. | | | How would you rate this newsletter? | | | This email was sent to you by: | Lonely Planet Publications Ltd. | 1101 Red Ventures Drive, Fort Mill, SC 29707 | | | |
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